CINNAMON
and
CINNAMON II
The CINNAMON family of canoes are designed for river cruising where a motor is essential. The original boat was 18 feet long, 44" beam, wood strip construction, and weighed 100 pounds. Cinnamon II is 14 feet long, 37" beam, stitch and glue construction, and weighs only 70 pounds. Both boats have squared off transoms with an isolation bulkhead 18" forward of the transom for fuel storage. Sound reduction covers can be added (the original Cinnamon had a full cover), but are not really necessary given the number of quiet 4 stroke engines available today. Both canoes are rated for 5 hp.
13’
10”’ LOA
39”
Beam
Full
load displacement = 408 lbs.
Dry
weight = 65 lbs. (foam core), 95 lbs. (plywood)
130
lbs./inch immersion
Construction
Overview
The CINNAMON II lines
are ideal for stitch and tape construction.
A list of books on stitch and tape / wood strip construction is included
at the end of these instructions. If
you’re not familiar with the basic techniques, I recommend buying one for
reference and experimenting with some scrap wood.
Two building materials are available, plywood or Klegecell foam core.
Foam core construction is more difficult but reduces the weight of the
boat by about 30 pounds. 1/2”
thick Klegecell foam or 1/4” plywood is used for the hull.
The foam is glassed with two layers of 4 oz cloth, both sides, and the
plywood is glassed with a single layer of 6 oz cloth. If cost is a major driver, the inside layer of glass can be
omitted (plywood only), but the boat will last much longer if all wood surfaces
are fiberglassed.
The two bulkheads,
located at station 2 and 11, and the transom are cut out from 1/4” plywood
(marine plywood is unnecessary) or 1/2” foam.
A temporary bulkhead is placed at station 7.
The sides and bottom are cut out from two sheets of ¼” plywood, joined
with a traditional 10-1 scarf joint. A
description of scarf joints can be found in the reference books listed at the
end of this manual. If foam is
used, the panels can be scarfed together with hot melt adhesive, then glassed (2
layers) on the outside surface, before final shaping.
Assembly requires
only one temporary bulkhead and no forms, strongbacks, or jigs.
The bottom panel is placed on a smooth flat surface and the bulkheads are
erected at stations 2, 7, and 11. Stations
2 and 11 are glued in place with epoxy. Brace
the station 11 bulkhead so that it remains firm on the floor using sandbags or
bracing from the shops ceiling. Shim
the ends of the bottom panel until the waterlines are in line, then position the
lower side panels and tie them to the station 11 bulkhead.
Move to stations 2 and 11 and bend the panels in place and lock them with
nylon cable ties. Repeat with the
upper side panels, and add the transom and 1” thick bow insert.
Pull the wire ties tight, working your way around the entire boat.
Check the fit along the chines and shim the bottom up or spread the sides
out until the joints close. When
your satisfied with the alignment, take a roll of duct tape and cover the
outside of each chine joint. Mix up
a batch of thickened epoxy and form a 4” wide fillet to all inside joints. While still “wet”, cover the fillets with two layers of 6
oz. Fiberglass. After the epoxy
cures the boat is turned upside down, wire ties are cut off, and the joints
rounded and filled with epoxy.
Both the inside and
outside of the hull get covered with 1 layer of 8 oz. Fiberglass (plywood) or 2
layers in the case of foam. Both
plywood and foam boats use two layers of tape over the joints and extra tape at
the stem, and transom. Either
polyester or epoxy resin can be used with plywood.
Use only epoxy for foam core construction and seam fillets.
Never use polyester resin as an adhesive.
It is designed to wet out glass and transfer loads to the fibers, but
compared to epoxy, it is a poor adhesive. Consider
fiberglassing at least one side of the panels before stitching them together.
It is possible to glass both sides first, but the panels will require
more force to get them in position.
Skin Panels and Bulkheads
NOTE:
The bulkhead and bottom panel dimensions include a 1/4-inch skin
thickness allowance. Remove another
¼ inch if ½” foam is used. The
outer mold line, OML, is the same for both materials.
PLYWOOD
ONLY: Cut the transom bulkhead, and
the two internal bulkheads from 1/4” plywood, to the dimensions shown on the
plans. Fill any voids in the
plywood and sand the edges to a smooth radius.
Build the station 7 bulkhead from scrap. Splice two sheets of plywood together for the sides, and
another two for the bottom. The
quickest splice is a glassed butt joint. You
simply sand both sides of the plywood down 1/16”, 3” from the joint.
Butt the pieces together and glass with two layers of 8 oz. Cloth, cut
6”wide. After the resin cures,
carefully turn the panels over and do the same to the other side.
Traditional scarf joints are not difficult either.
See my “NESTOR” web page for photos showing how to scarf plywood
panels using a disc sander. Additional
information on scarf joints is available in the reference books listed at the
end of this manual.
FOAM
ONLY: Join the foam panels together
with butt joints using hot melt adhesive from a “Glue Gun”.
Arrange the panels on a flat surface and brush or roll on a thin coat of
epoxy. When cured, cover the
outside surface of the bottom and side panels with 2 layers of 8 oz. Cloth,
brush out any wrinkles, and saturate with epoxy.
When partially cured, cut out the rough panels with a razor knife.
Do the same with the station 2 and 11 bulkheads, except bond two layers
of foam together and fiberglass both sides with 2 layers.
FOAM
AND PLYWOOD: Lay out the shape of
the panels, using a straight edge, square, and wood batten.
Carefully mark each dimension on the panel, using a nail or marking pen,
then connect them with a thin wooden batten.
Check the batten for any unfair lines by getting down close to the line
and sighting down it. Trust your eyes, if it doesn’t look good, find out why and
fix it. When you’re satisfied,
mark the panel along the batten. Cut
the panels out using a skill saw with a thin, carbide tipped blade, and smooth
any rough edges. Extreme accuracy
is not important since the epoxy will fill any gaps and is stronger than the
panel.
Assembling the Hull
The
boat is assembled in an upright configuration.
Begin by placing the bottom panel down on a smooth flat surface.
If you have glassed one side, the fiberglass side should be
“outside”. Position the
temporary center bulkhead and glue it (lightly) to the bottom panel, with epoxy,
so that it can be removed later. Make
sure the bulkhead is vertical and centered on the bottom panel.
When the epoxy has cured, run a brace from the ceiling to the
bottom panel, next to the center bulkhead, and use wedges to lock the
bottom securely to the floor. If
your working outside, place the bottom panel down on a pair of 4x4’s, 12’
long and 2’ apart, and fasten them together with 4 dry wall screws, 1” from
the center bulkhead. The 4x4’s
should be leveled and braced against movement.
Shim the bottom panel up 1 ½” at station 2, 2 5/8” at station 11,
and 5 5/8” at the transom. Position
the side panels in place and pull the ends together.
Mark areas that need to be beveled and dress the edges until a good fit
is achieved. Position the transom
check the fit, bevel the edges, if necessary.
At the bow, the panels should be attached to a piece of 1x2 scrap,
beveled to fit.
When
the bevels are finished (don’t worry about gaps less than a quarter inch) the
lower side panels are stitched to the bulkheads and clamped at the bow and
transom. More cable clamps can be
added between the bulkheads, if needed. If
you don’t have the proper clamps, use shock cord, rubber tubing, or even duct
tape. Check the fit of the panels
to the bulkheads and each other. It
may help to spread the sides out slightly using scrap wood and wedges.
Adjust the wire ties and spreaders until the gap along the chine is
closed, then sight along the chine for any bulges or unfairness.
The fit doesn’t have to be perfect, but you should try to get the
chines as fair as possible. When
your satisfied that everything is about as good as it going to get, trim any
wire ties and cover the outside of all the seams with a layer of duct tape (
this will catch any extra epoxy when the joins are filled ).
Mix
about a quart of epoxy, micro balloons, chopped glass, and cab-o-sill into a
thin putty consistency. It should
be just thick enough to hold its shape and not run.
Gently push the putty into the inside seams, using a putty knife, until
they are completely filled. Switch
from the putty knife to a thin piece of wood with a 2” radius at one end, and
lay down a second coat of putty. Use
the radius tool to form a smooth radius fillet, extending an inch or two on
either side of the joint. Several
passes will be necessary. Clean up
any epoxy outside the fillet area using a putty knife, sharp chisel, and an
acetone soaked rag. Add two layers
of 6” wide cloth to each joint. If
you have worked carefully, little finish sanding will be needed.
When
the resin has cured, turn the boat upside down, cut away the cable ties, remove
the duct tape, and fill any voids in the outside seams.
Sand the edges into a smooth blend with the sides and bottom.
Move to the stem of the boat and trim the side panels to form a flat
edge, 1” wide. Fit and epoxy a
1” square piece of oak along the stem, and fair it into the sides and bottom.
Fiberglass
the outside surface (plywood only) and seams (both plywood and foam) to exactly
the same schedule as the insides. Trim
the tape slightly to stagger the edges. Sand
and blend the glass into the hull, but avoid sanding through the fiberglass.
If you start cutting into glass, STOP, cover the area with several coats
of resin, and resume sanding just the resin.
Remove the station 7 bulkhead and sand all surfaces smooth.
From
this point on, the design can take several paths to the finished boat.
If you elected to go with a simple arrangement, you’re almost finished
– just add seats and a gunnel. The
plans call for foam floatation in the bow and stern, which is commonly contained
within the seats. Deck options
include wood strips with a bright finish and coamings.
You may consider just building the fore deck and seat untill you decide
on the general layout you want. Wood
strips are an attractive alternative for the deck, and they can be formed into
compound curves with ease. Using
white glue, glue the strips to each other and the bulkheads. Start in the center and work your way out.
When you overlap the OML, mark the edge, and trim.
Next, clean up the surface with a sander and cover with 2 layers of
glass. Gently pry the deck off the
bulkheads, clean up the undersides, and glass with 2 layers.
The plywood deck is more difficult and you may need to attach blocks to
the bulkheads or notch in stringers to provide a place for the hold down screws.
Mast Step
If
you’re including the sail option, now is the time to build a mast step and
fiberglass it to the station 2 bulkhead. The
easiest way to size the mast step is to settle on your mast design first.
I like to use old windsurfer masts and a simple sleeve luff sail, but
many other arrangements will work. Just
stay below 76 square feet of sail area. Wrap
the lower 30” of your mast with 3 tight layers of plastic sheet material and
tape it in place against the mast. Laminate
8 layers, about 1/8”, of glass around the mast and remove it when cured.
Foam
floatation can now be installed. You
can cut blocks out of larger pieces or use foam in place products.
The blocks are easier to control, and recommended if you intend to make a
storage compartment above the foam. If
you want a storage compartment, fill the forepeak to within 8” of the deck,
then cover the foam with two layers of fiberglass.
Clean up any rough edges, and your finished.
If your not going to use this area for storage, use the foam in place
technique, fill the whole thing, and trim off the excess.
Gunnels
The
Gunnels are next in line. Cut out
and scarf together enough 2” wide, 1/4” thick oak to end up with eight,
16’ long pieces. Starting with
the inside gunnel, and cut away the forward section deep and long enough to fit
the deck. Bend it into position and
trim the length. If too much force
is required to conform with the shear line, rip the strips in half, then epoxy
them in place. The easy way is to
laminate one layer at a time. If
you have lots of clamps, and confidence, you can laminate them all at once.
Trim
the side panels to match the inner gunnel, and check the fit of the deck.
You will need to notch out a place for the mast step, if used.
When everything fits, epoxy the deck in position and hold it in place
with screws (plywood deck only). Clean
up the outside of the deck so that it is flush with the side panels and form a
1/4” radius around the edge. Put
a strip of masking tape on the side panels, 1 1/2” below the shear.
Fiberglass the deck edge with 4” bi-axial tape, two layers, down to the
tape.
Remove
the tape, clean up the edges, and fit the outer Gunnels. Use plugged screws on 8” centers and epoxy to hold it in
place
Finishing the Hull
Let
the joints cure overnight, then brush on 2 - 3 heavy coats of resin to fill in
the pores of the cloth. If your
using polyester resin, the last coat should have a surfacing agent added to it
to make sanding easier. Start with
80 grit, being careful not to cut through the resin into the glass, especially
along the edges. If you see white
cloth appear where you’re sanding, STOP SANDING that area.
when the resin is smooth, finish sand with 180-grit paper.
Clean up any sharp fiberglass “ends” in the insides with a scraper
and sandpaper. Structurally the
boat is now complete and ready for the finishing touches.
Final Details
The
center thwart and centerboard trunk can now be built and glassed in place.
An easy way to build a centerboard trunk is to use the same technique as
the mast step. Make sure the slot
is loose enough to account for normal swelling and warping.
A 1/8” clearance is about right. Cut
out the bottom for the centerboard trunk and glass it to both the bottom of the
boat and the thwart. Trim the top
flush with the seat. The lower end
of the centerboard trunk should stick out of the bottom ½”.
Bond it to the bottom with epoxy adhesive, with generous fillets on both
sides of the bottom. You may want
to build a plug for the centerboard, since water will splash up into the boat
when it’s being towed.
Footropes
are handy for lifting the boat, boarding it from the water, and righting a
capsized boat. They are attached to
the gunnel every 18” using an eye strap.
Use 3/8” braid , lashed in place with sizing line.
Eye splices at each end make a nice touch. The ropes should hang down evenly about 8” from the shear.
Mount
the oarlocks 8 inches aft of the aft edge of the seat. Other finishing touches include
motor mount pads, bow and stern eyes, and mooring cleats. Many good books are available for advice and ideas on finish
work. Look around and select
a combination of bottom paint, waterline color, and interior detail that suits
you. As a minimum, all unpainted
surfaces should be given two coats of a good exterior grade, high gloss varnish.
This will bring out the beauty of the wood, and protect the resin from
ultra violet damage.
Outboard
Power: Cinnamon II is not designed
for high speeds and will get along fine with a 5 hp motor.
Use a four stroke outboard. They
are efficient, quiet, and don’t pollute the water with unburned oil.
Two stroke outboards are banned from some lakes.
The transom can be slotted to fit a small outboard or fitted with tracks
for a removable outboard mount.
Sun
Shade:
A series of “covered wagon” style hoops can be formed from
collapsible fiberglass tent support tubing, locked into holes in the gunwale,
and used to support a sun shade. Metal
tube framed bimini’s are another possibility.
Underwater
Viewer: Some sailors find a
clear plastic port in the bottom useful for checking how / if your anchor’s
set or looking for fish. The port
should not be larger then 10”, and the edge of the cutout should be reinforced
with an oak frame, bonded to the inside surface of the hull and glassed in
place. The frame should be 2”
wide and extend ¾” inside the cutout. Use
¼” plexiglass, bedding compound, and 5/8” flat head screws every 2 inches.
Good luck on your boat building project.
Let me know if you have any problems, and when your finished, send me a
picture! Be sure to check my web site (www.johnsboatstuff.com)
regularly for pictures and additional information on building CINNAMON II.
Bill of Materials
Four
sheets of ¼” exterior grade plywood
Note:
substituting a lightweight structural core material, like 1/2” thick Klegecell
or balsa core, in place of plywood, will save about 30 pounds.
You will need another 12 yards of cloth and 1 gallon of resin, since the
foam core needs two layers of fiberglass.
4
pieces, 1/2 x 2 white oak gunnel stock, 14 feet long
18
yards of 8 oz. Fiber glass cloth, 38” wide
3
gal. Laminating resin (iso)
1
gal. Finishing resin
1
gal. Epoxy for fillets
1
qt. Cab-o-sil
1
qt. WEST, structural filler, #403
1
gal. Acetone
misc.
brushes, nylon wire ties, drywall screws, white glue, paint, and varnish
TOTAL
COST:
$300 - $400 (plywood), $600 (foam core)
References
THE
GOUGEON BROTHERS ON BOAT CONSTRUCTION
PO box 908
Bay City, MI 48707
(good description of joint design and fabrication,
including scarf joints)
JAMESTOWN DISTRIBUTORS
1
800 423 0030
(excellent
single source for all boat
building supplies )
FIBERGLASS COATINGS, INC.
1
800 272 7890 (epoxy, isothalic resins, fiberglass cloth, klegecell)
www.fcgi.com
WEST
MARINE
1-800
262 8464 (marine hardware, hatches, resin, epoxy)
DEFENDER
1-800
628 8225 (good general source for marine hardware, resins, and klegecell)
OVERTONS
1 800 334 6541 (nice
rectangular plastic hatches, 11 X 15)
SHAW
& TENNEY
1
800 240 4867 (oars, since 1858, the best in the world)
FISHON
1
877 2347166 (large opening hatches)