The accuracy of computer lofted plates speeds up the construction process and requires fewer support frames. The hull is built inverted over three rigid metal frames. These frames are welded from aluminum angle (including deck, cabin, and sole members), positioned at bulkhead locations, and remain in the finished boat. The inboard hull plates are positioned first, sprung into fit, and welded to each other and the support frames. I like the idea of using 1/4" thick material. It may be a little difficult to bend, but it will not distort much and the hull should end up quite fair and bullet proof.

        The keel is fabricated and welded to the hull while inverted. When the boat is turned over, it can be filled with lead bricks, grouted with molten lead, and sealed with a welded bilge plate. Internal ballast is stronger, cheaper, and eliminates the need for keel bolts and their associated support structure. My initial estimate is that the keel would be a NACA 63 airfoil, 12’ long and 18" wide at the root. It would extend down 39" below the hull fairbody, tapering to a length of 10’ and a width of 12". The lead ballast would start 18" down from the top of the keel. This will result in a large bilge area is good for batteries, water, fuel, and holding tanks. The aft 4 feet of the keel should be left open to form a deep bilge volume for containing the shower drains, melted ice, or any leakage. The cabin sole will start about 12" above the keel, providing more bilge storage area. Long and thick keels like this don’t win races but they track well, position ballast low for good stability, provide grounding protection, and have lots of storage. I would combine the stern pulpit, radar arch, and davits into one structure. The radar arch is a great place for TV, LORAN, and RADAR antennas. Some people also install solar cells on the arch and its good for supporting a sunshade.