TRIDENT 15
The TRIdent 15 is the smallest of the Wave Piercing designs, but it still shares the same blend of stability and seaworthiness found in the larger boats. Designed as a tender for a large multi-hull, like the TRIdent 42, the TRIdent 15 can also be used for fishing and family outings on lakes or protected waters. With a 25 hp outboard, speeds over 20 knots are possible.
NEW !! first construction (PHOTOS)
The Wave piercing center hull blends into the AMA's. Note the flat planning sections aft and the fine entry. The
center hull is designed to "split" oncoming waves and eliminate the pounding normally found in high speed cats.
A DIFFERENT BREED OF CAT!!
SPECIFICATIONS:
Length = 15'
Beam = 67.5"
Hull Weight, no engine or fuel, = 250 pounds
Self Bailing Cockpit
HP = 25 or less
Payload, 4 adults
Sail Area = 92 sq. ft.
The Trident 15 is designed as a tender for a 40 foot or larger catamaran. The AMA beam is 18", and the overall beam is increased to 67.5", a wide and stable boat. LOA with an outboard is slightly under 12', which just fits into the davits of a large cat. The seats are defined by a 3-6" high coaming that is molded into the deck. Besides some spray protection, the molding keeps passengers more secure than sitting on the tube of the typical inflatable. Two large hatches allow storage in both AMA's and under the center seat. The load carrying capacity is generous. With the tunnel submerged 1", the boat displaces 801 pounds and has 13" of freeboard remaining. Loaded another 3 inches increases the displacement to 1381 pounds. The center hull and AMA ends are filled with foam floatation. Maximum HP is 25, which should allow speeds over 25 knots, however a 10 HP engine will plane the boat with two people aboard. Dry weight, with a small outboard, is around 500 pounds.
Details, front view
A sail rig is an option. Using a two piece mast, the entire sail rig can be broken down and stored in a AMA. Oarlocks can also be fitted to the coaming for rowing.
Construction Details
The TRIdent 15 can be built from wood strips or "stitch and glue" plywood. In both cases, all exposed surfaces are glassed to eliminate dry rot and insure a stiff hull. Two full width bulkheads tie the three hulls together structurally along with the plywood cockpit sole, transom, and sides. Additional stiffeners are placed along the center hull keel. Floatation foam is used in both outer hulls. The forward portion of the center hull is available for storage via a hatch built into the forward seat. Two 18 gallon fuel tanks can be built into the outer hulls.
WOOD STRIP CONSTRUCTION: The three hulls are built together in the inverted position, with the forward frames spaced on 9" centers. The curvature in the aft section is small enough to spread the frames to 27". The recommended strips are 1/4" thick redwood or cedar, ripped from 1" stock. Cove and bead strips are not necessary, since many of the strips will need to be tapered. A small hand plane is best for this job. The building frames for the three hulls are cut from 3/4" particle board, then screwed to a 2x4 at the proper butt line. The assembled frames are then aligned and held in place on a 2 foot wide strong back, made from 2x6 stock, bolted to sawhorses. The frames at station 5 and 12 are built out of 1/2" marine grade plywood (frame 12 takes two layers), and will not be removed. Strips should be glued to these frames securely (use lots of epoxy). The strips are run past the transom (frame 12) for 12", faired, and glassed with three layers of 6 oz. cloth. The cloth is cut to provide a minimum overlap of 3" along the center line of each hull. After turning the hull over, the insides are cleaned up, fillets applied to the permanent bulkheads and "everything" glassed with 3 layers of cloth. An additional ply of 6" wide BI-axial tape (the fibers run at 45 degrees) is placed at each side of the permanent bulkheads/hull joint.
STITCH AND GLUE CONSTRUCTION: The hull panels (ten total) are cut from four sheets of 1/4" plywood, 4' wide by 15.5' long. Two female forms are secured to a level surface, spaced 6 feet apart. The ten hull panels are cut in pairs, and positioned inside the forms. The transom is positioned, along with three nose bulkheads, and the panels are screwed into the forms and the ends pulled into contact with the transom and stem bulkheads. Working from side to side, the panels are bent and / or twisted until the gap is closed, and locked with copper wire or nylon cable ties. When the final alignment is correct, the panels are glued to each other with epoxy adhesive, and fiber glassed. The hull is then turned upside down, cleaned and filled, and glassed.
The deck is formed by placing temporary frames across the hull, cut to the correct camber, and stripped. The deck is trimmed to the shear and cockpit lines, then glassed with two layers of 6 oz. cloth. It is then carefully removed, fiber glassed on the inside, and set back on the hull with epoxy adhesive. The shear line is next finished to a smooth radius, inside and out, and covered with two layers of 4" tape around the outside and 6" BI-axial tape along the inside.
The cockpit sides, forward seat, and sole are cut from 1/4" plywood. The sole is cut 3" wide to allow for cleats to support the sides, and additional cleats are screwed down to the bulkheads to support the sole. Mounting brackets are then built for the fuel tanks and the tanks installed and plumbed. The final step before closing up the cockpit sides is to pour flotation foam into both outer hulls. The sides are then screwed and epoxied in place, the joints rounded or filleted, and all exposed wood glassed with two layers of 6 oz. cloth. The wood stripped deck is finished with varnish, and the hull and cockpit painted. The finishing details depend on how you expect to use the boat. A set of oar locks, a simple seat, and a 5 hp outboard is one end of the spectrum. A 25 hp outboard, steering station, running lights, bimini, and upholstered seats are at the other end. Your choice!